We also enjoyed particularly fine fall weather -- it rained only on the last day when it also turned noticeably cooler. Most evenings were fine enough to eat outdoors and there were plenty of opportunities for that. For the most part the logistics of travel worked smoothly, with only a few minor challenges when transfers were missed or reservations boggled. That meant we were able to focus attention on the experience of being in the places we visited rather than on the process of getting there.
We were in Athens (2 nights near the Acropolis), Crete (4 nights near Elounda), Istanbul (5 nights in an apartment overlooking the Bosporus), Cappadocia (3 nights in Göreme), Izmir (2 nights), and back to Istanbul (1/2 night before an early flight back home). We were on nine flights (Philadelphia to Athens, Athens to Heraklion, Heraklion to Athens to Istanbul, Istanbul to Kayseri, Ankora to Izmir, Izmir to Istanbul, Istanbul to Frankfurt to Philadelphia). The internal flights were on Olympic and Turkish Airlines, both of which still serve meals.
We had private transfers by taxi and minibus, rode on light rail systems, public highway buses, ferries, and in a small rental car. And we walked quite a bit (my favorite mode). On two days (in Cappodocia and Ephesos) we had licensed guides, and we were shown around some of Istanbul's mosques by the pre-teen son of a friend. Mostly we were on our own, and yes, we did many of the major tourist sites.
We were in Turkey during Ramadan, which seemed to make Istanbul even more intense. The religious celebration offered us the chance to witness Islamic spirituality in greater depth than we might have at another time of the year.
We departed Turkey just as news of ill-considered US Congressional resolution to condemn as genocide the early 20th Century killing of Armenians by Turks reached Istanbul. The conflicts over whether Turkey would invade northern Iraq in the continuing skirmishes with Kurds were heating up. We, however, paid little attention to the news (I almost never watch television news and none of our group speaks or reads Turkish), so we didn't know much about those things while we were there. Our experience was one of being welcomed with warm hospitality throughout both Greece and Turkey, but particularly in Turkey. The only political statement we heard was from a taxi driver who spoke little English. He turned to us part way through the trip and asked, "American?" "Yes." "American people, very good. Bush very bad!" We found common ground.
The trip was very rich on many dimensions, and it will take a long time to make sense of it and place it in context with our daily life and work at home. It is hard to know where to begin and how to organize the reflections. They seem to be popping up in random and disconnected ways. I bought back over 1300 digital images -- perhaps a six-hour slide show.
I intend to post more reflections in coming weeks.